Get to Know Tenoon Songke: The History of Labuan Bajo’s Traditional Fabric

Handcrafted Items From Komodo Island | Komodo Luxury

When you visit Labuan Bajo, one souvenir you shouldn’t miss is bringing home the famous Tenoon Songke cloth, a traditional fabric from the Manggarai weaving tradition. If you want to get to know the rich culture of East Nusa Tenggara (NTT), learning about Tenoon Songke is a great start. This cloth represents the region’s rich cultural heritage and is a favorite gift for travelers. What types of Tenoon Songke fabrics are typical in Labuan Bajo and perfect as souvenirs?

Don’t worry! This article will help you get to know Tenoon Songke better by explaining the different types of this fabric, the meanings behind its unique motifs, and practical tips for buying authentic Tenoon Songke as a meaningful gift from Labuan Bajo. So, keep reading to ensure you get the real deal and understand the story behind the fabric!

What Is Tenoon Songke and Why Is It Special?

Tenoon Songke, locally known as Tenun, is a traditional woven fabric from the Manggarai people in East Nusa Tenggara. It is made manually by skilled local artisans, primarily women. This fabric has deep cultural value and is used not only as daily wear but also as a symbol in various traditional ceremonies. It is worn at weddings, religious rituals, and funerals, reflecting the connection between humans, nature, and the divine.

The fabric has existed for hundreds of years and comes from the Manggarai, one of the ethnic groups in East Nusa Tenggara. Its origin was influenced by cultural exchange with the Makassar kingdom in the 17th century, adding unique colors and styles to the weaving. Tenoon Songke plays a key role in the social and cultural life of the Manggarai people and is used in many important ceremonies.

The making process of Tenoon Songke is complicated and takes months. Artisans use traditional tools like gasong and woer to weave threads dyed naturally with plants such as turmeric, indigo, and local leaves. Only women master this weaving technique, making Tenoon Songke a symbol of female strength in NTT. Uniquely, only women and their daughters create this fabric.

Origins and Historical Significance

Get to know Tenoon Songke | Komodo Luxury
Get to know Tenoon Songke | Komodo Luxury

To truly get to know Tenoon Songke, exploring its rich origins and historical importance is essential. The tradition of Tenoon Songke weaving dates back to the 17th century, emerging during a cultural exchange between the Manggarai people of Flores and the Gowa Sultanate from Sulawesi.

Tenoon Songke was not merely a piece of cloth at that time—it was a powerful symbol of status, wealth, and identity among the Manggarai aristocracy. The intricate motifs woven into the fabric are deeply philosophical, representing connections between humans, nature, ancestors, and the social order. Each pattern tells a story, carrying spiritual and cultural meanings passed down through generations.

As time progressed, Tenoon Songke transcended its original elite status and became embraced by the wider Manggarai community. It became a unifying cultural artifact, worn proudly during important ceremonies such as weddings, religious rites, and community gatherings. This broad acceptance helped preserve and promote the tradition across social classes.

In recent years, Tenoon Songke has stepped onto the global stage. A notable moment was its prominent presence during the ASEAN Summit in 2023, where the fabric symbolized Bali’s pride and Indonesia’s rich cultural diversity. 

Tenoon Songke in Everyday Life and Labuan Bajo Traditions

To truly get to know Tenoon Songke, it’s essential to understand its deep role in the daily lives and traditions of the Manggarai people. This beautifully handwoven fabric is far more than just clothing—it is a symbol rich with meaning and cultural significance, woven tightly into the fabric of community life in Labuan Bajo.

During weddings, Tenoon Songke represents purity, hope, and blessings for the couple as they begin a new chapter of life together. The cloth is carefully draped over the bride and groom, symbolizing a sacred bond between two people and their families and ancestors. It is also a key part of welcoming guests, showing respect and hospitality, and in healing rituals where it is believed to protect against negative energies and evil spirits.

People wear Tenoon Songke not only during ceremonies but also at formal events, and they often gift it during special milestones like births, coming-of-age ceremonies, or community celebrations. Moreover, village women unite to weave Tenoon Songke as a communal effort, passing down their skills and stories through generations.This cooperative tradition strengthens social ties and reflects a profound unity and pride.

As a symbol of social status, Tenoon Songke reflects the Manggarai people’s strong connection with nature, their ancestors, and the community. It embodies solidarity, respect, and cultural identity, making it a cherished part of everyday life and essential rites.

How Tenoon Songke Is Made: From Materials to Finished Fabric

Making Tenoon Songke is a complex process that requires high skill. Here’s how artisans create this high-quality fabric:

  • Material Selection: Local cotton is spun into thread. Natural dyes like indigo (for black) and turmeric (for yellow) are used to color it.
  • Spinning and Dyeing: Cotton threads are spun by hand and dyed using traditional natural techniques passed down through generations. This process ensures long-lasting, vibrant colors.
  • Weaving: Using traditional looms called gedogan, weavers create intricate Tenoon Songke patterns.
  • Finishing: After weaving, the fabric is manually finished to ensure quality. The result is a smooth, strong fabric ready for ceremonies or as art.

Only women and their daughters weave Tenoon Songke, making this craft unique and highlighting the vital role women play in preserving this tradition. Furthermore, this practice strengthens the cultural heritage passed down through generations.

Read more: Komodo Island Backpacking Guide

Types of Tenoon Songke: A Detailed Exploration

Tenoon Songke From Labuan Bajo | Komodo Luxury
Tenoon Songke From Labuan Bajo | Komodo Luxury

If you genuinely want to get to know Tenoon Songke, it’s essential to dive into the rich diversity of its types, each with distinct textures, motifs, cultural roots, and purposes. Here’s a more detailed look at the most well-known types of Tenoon Songke:

1. Songke Sumba

This tension features a lightweight fabric that is comfortable for daily wear or as a fashion accessory. Additionally, the strong influence of Sumba culture shines through its vivid color palette—typicall bright reds, yellows, and blacks—that immediately catch the eye. The motifs are mostly bold geometric patterns, including the famous Jok motif, symbolizing ocean waves and strength. This motif represents the powerful forces of nature and the resilience of the Sumba people. Songke Sumba is often crafted into modern garments like sarongs, shawls, or bags, blending traditional artistry with contemporary utility. Its vibrant colors and dynamic patterns make it a perfect piece for those who want to carry the spirit of Sumba’s culture wherever they go.

2. Songke Flores

This Tenoon from Flores is distinguished by its soft texture and more subtle, delicate motifs that express themes of peace, spirituality, and harmony with nature. The most common motifs include Ntala, symbolizing stars and aspirations, and Wela Kawu, inspired by the kapok flower, which stands for harmony and unity. These motifs have deep spiritual meanings, portraying the delicate balance between humans and the universe. People often wear Songke Flores as a ceremonial shawl or use it as home decor to add a touch of tranquility and cultural richness. Additionally, the fabric’s muted and natural colors give it an elegant, timeless appeal that beautifully reflects the gentle spirit of the Flores community.

3. Songke Ende

This type is profoundly spiritual and traditionally worn during essential rituals. The Ranggong motif stands out as a symbol of a spider, representing honesty, diligence, and resilience—qualities that the Manggarai culture highly esteems. Moreover, this motif inspires wearers to embody these values daily. Songke Ende fabrics usually have a darker base, enhanced with subtle golden accents that add to their sacred aura. This cloth is considered prestigious and is commonly worn during weddings, religious ceremonies, and other solemn occasions. Its rich symbolism and elegant appearance make it a treasured cultural heritage with profound meaning for its wearer.

4. Songke Timor

People recognize Tenoon Timor for its durable and sturdy fabric, which reflects Timor’s practical needs for daily life. Furthermore, this resilience makes it ideal for everyday wear and functional accessories. The design is more straightforward than other types, characterized by bold black-and-white striped patterns that symbolize stability, peace, and social harmony. These stripes create a striking contrast, often seen in traditional clothing and accessories like bags. Songke Timor is essential in formal and informal events and represents Timorese culture’s strength and grounded nature.

5. Songke Sikka

People often fashion Songke Sikka, renowned for its softness and intricate weaving, into elegant scarves or headbands. The fabric typically features the Wela Runu motif, which depicts small flowers and symbolizes gentleness, peace, and harmony within the community. Its pastel color tones reinforce a feeling of calm and grace. People frequently wear Songke Sikka during weddings and important traditional ceremonies, adding a layer of beauty and cultural pride to these celebrations. Moreover, its delicate motifs and soft texture enhance the elegance and significance of each event. The fine craftsmanship required to produce Songke Sikka showcases the exceptional skill of local weavers.

6. Songke Rote

The tenoon from Rote is thicker and heavier, designed for ceremonial use and symbolizing spiritual depth. Deep blacks and earthy browns dominate its color palette, creating a sense of solemnity and respect. The central motif, Lobak, represents harmony and balance, reflecting the close spiritual connection between the Rote people and their environment. Songke Rote often appears in traditional attire and serves as material for making accessories that showcase the strength and resilience of the Rote community. Additionally, these pieces carry deep cultural significance, connecting wearers to their heritage and traditions. The fabric is a cultural symbol and a testament to enduring traditions.

The Philosophical Meaning Behind Tenoon Songke Motifs

Labuan Bajo Tenoon Songket| Komodo Luxury
Labuan Bajo Songke | Komodo Luxury

Each motif woven into the Tenoon Songke fabric is more than just a decorative pattern—it holds profound philosophical meaning reflecting the Manggarai people’s understanding of life, nature, and their ancestral heritage. These motifs are visual stories, passed down through generations, carrying values and beliefs that guide everyday life.

1. Mata Manuk (Bird’s Eye)

This motif represents sharp watchfulness and protection. In Manggarai culture, the bird’s eye symbolizes the ability to see far and stay vigilant against danger. It expresses a hope for safety, wisdom, and guidance for the wearer, reminding them to stay alert and mindful in their journey through life.

2. Ntala

Ntala depicts the connection between the earth and the sky, symbolizing harmony and balance—two essential forces that create and sustain life. This motif emphasizes the importance of living in harmony with nature and maintaining balance in all aspects of life, encouraging peace within the individual and community.

3. Ranggong (Spider)

The spider motif embodies the idea of life’s continuous growth and change. Just like a spider weaves its web thread by thread, life unfolds with constant evolution. Ranggong teaches resilience, adaptability, and acceptance of the natural cycles of transformation that everyone experiences.

4. Wela Runu

This motif reflects the power of nature and the deep respect for its influence on human life. It symbolizes the essential harmony between humans and their environment, encouraging people to live in balance with the forces of nature and recognize their role as caretakers of the earth.

5. Wela Kapu

Representing wisdom and the priceless beauty of nature, Wela Kapu reminds the wearer of the profound knowledge that comes from observing and respecting the natural world. It calls for humility and appreciation for the delicate balance and grace found in the environment.

6. Jabang

This motif stands for new life, birth, and hope. It symbolizes optimism, representing fresh beginnings and the promise of a better future. In Manggarai culture, Jabang inspires the wearer to embrace opportunities for growth and renewal with an open heart.

7. Su’i

The Su’i motif is about courage and inner strength in facing life’s challenges. It encourages perseverance through adversity and embodies the spirit of bravery that empowers individuals to overcome obstacles and pursue their goals.

8. Jok

Simple yet profound, the Jok motif symbolizes simplicity and balance in life. It reflects the ideal of living modestly, appreciating the small things, and finding contentment through harmony in daily living. Jok reminds people to avoid excess and seek equilibrium in all areas of life.

9. Congkar

A symbol of luck, prosperity, and opportunity, Congkar represents the positive possibilities that life can offer. It encourages openness to new chances and the belief that a prosperous life is attainable through hard work and fortune.

Why Tenoon Songke Is the Perfect Souvenir from Labuan Bajo

Tenoon Songke is more than just a typical souvenir — it’s a beautiful fabric with rich cultural stories and deep meaning. Here’s why it makes the perfect gift or keepsake from your visit to Labuan Bajo:

  • Represents Manggarai Cultural Heritage with Deep Meanings
    Each Tenoon Songke cloth is handwoven with traditional motifs that symbolize the beliefs, history, and spirituality of the Manggarai people. The patterns tell stories about nature, ancestors, and social values, making it a meaningful piece of cultural art that connects you to the local heritage.
  • Supports Local Artisans and Small Businesses in Labuan Bajo
    Purchasing Tenoon Songke directly helps sustain the livelihoods of the local women artisans who have mastered the intricate weaving techniques passed down through generations. Your purchase boosts the local economy and encourages the preservation of this precious craft.
  • Versatile for Clothing, Home Décor, or Art Collections
    You can use Tenoon Songke’s beautiful and durable fabric in many ways—wear it as scarves or shawls, display it as elegant wall hangings, or add it to your personal art collection. Its versatility means it can fit any lifestyle, serving as both a practical item and a cultural statement.
  • Offers Authentic Memories of Your Trip
    Bringing home a Tenoon Songke is like carrying a piece of Labuan Bajo’s spirit with you. Every time you use or display it, it reminds you of your journey, the people you met, and the unique cultural experiences you enjoyed.
  • Gaining Global Popularity, Adding Prestige to Your Gift
    With increasing international recognition, Tenoon Songke is no longer just a local treasure but a globally admired textile. Owning or gifting this fabric adds a layer of prestige and exclusivity, making it a standout and sophisticated souvenir.

Read more: Handcrafted Items from Komodo Island: Authentic Souvenirs You’ll Love

Tips for Buying a Tenoon Songke as a Souvenir

If you want to bring home the best Tenoon Songke from Labuan Bajo, here are some simple tips to help you choose the right one:

  • Check the quality of the weave and stitching.
    Look closely at the fabric. A good Tenoon Songke has a tight, even weave and neat stitches. The natural dyes make the colors bright and long-lasting.
  • Pick something that fits your budget.
    Tenoon Songke comes in different sizes and prices. Scarves or small pieces are more affordable, while full-length fabrics cost more. Decide your budget before buying to find the best value.
  • Choose a motif with a meaning you like
    Each pattern on Tenoon Songke has its meaning, like protection or harmony. Pick something special or meaningful to you for a more personal gift.
  • Buy from trusted shop
    Buy from well-known stores or directly from weavers in Labuan Bajo. This ensures that you get real, handmade Tenoon Songke, not machine-made copies.
  • Ask how it’s made
    Genuine Tenoon Songke is made by hand using traditional tools and natural dyes. Ask sellers about the process to avoid fake or mass-produced fabrics.
  • Learn how to take care of it
    Hand wash your Tenoon Songke gently with mild soap and cold water to keep it beautiful. Avoid machines or harsh detergents that can damage the fabric.

Explore Tenoon Songke in Labuan Bajo with Komodo Luxury!

When you visit Labuan Bajo, don’t miss the chance to bring home Tenoon Songke, a traditional woven fabric that perfectly blends exquisite artistry, rich culture, and community support. This fabric is more than just a souvenir—it carries the soul of the Manggarai and surrounding communities in East Nusa Tenggara. From the bold and meaningful Mata Manuk motif of Manggarai, symbolizing protection and watchfulness, to the soft and harmonious Wela Runu motif from Sikka, each piece tells a story and deepens your connection with the local culture, enriching your travel experience uniquely.

To truly get to know Tenoon Songke, join a Komodo Island Tour by Komodo Luxury. This carefully curated trip takes you to the breathtaking natural wonders around Labuan Bajo and Komodo Island and offers immersive cultural experiences. You’ll meet local artisans, learn about the traditional weaving process, and understand the rich symbolism behind each motif firsthand. The tour brings you closer to the heart of the community, turning your souvenir into a meaningful cultural treasure.

So, why wait? Start planning your adventure to Komodo Island and get to know more about Tenoon Songke with Komodo Luxury!

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